To MAK and Back

One of the great things about Peace Corps is getting to travel within your host country during downtime. Having been in the country for almost a year, my travels have taken me to Lake Ohrid, known as “The Pearl of the Balkans,” twice. Lake Ohrid straddles the border between North Macedonia and Albania and is easily North Macedonia’s most stunning destination. Located in the country’s southwestern corner, this ancient lake is one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes. Lake Ohrid’s waters shimmer with a rich turquoise hue. Recently, I visited the city of Ohrid, which borders the rocky beaches of the lake. The town of Ohrid is ancient, dating as far back as Philip the II of Macedon (Alexander the Great’s father). The Ohrid area is sometimes called the “Jerusalem of the Balkans” because it once had 365 churches!

As a history enthusiast, Ohrid has been host to many of history’s most dominant civilizations.The Romans, Byzantines, Slavs, and Ottomans ruled the city at different times. My favorite place to visit in the city is Samuel’s Fortress. Perched atop a hill, it offers a panoramic view of the city from a 360-degree view. The fortress is named after the first Tsar of Bulgaria, Samuel, who reigned between 976-1014. Ohrid was the capital of his empire, and much of the fortress dates back to this period. 

While Ohrid may no longer have 365 churches, there is one monastery nearby that is remarkable. The Sveti Naum Monastery is about a thirty-minute drive from the city alongside the coast of the lake. The monastery was established in 905 by Sveti Naum, who is buried there. The church grounds are home to several peacocks that roam the area. Within the monastery’s grounds are freshwater springs that run into the lake. The water here is astonishingly clear, making a boat tour a must. The Sveti Naum area is my favorite scenic destination in the country. It’s also worth noting that the Lake Ohrid area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the springs’ entrance serves as the breeding grounds for the endangered Ohrid Trout.

Also on the shores of Lake Ohrid is the Bay of Bones Museum. This unique establishment is a reconstruction of a prehistoric settlement dating back to 1200 – 700 BC when settlements on the lake were built on stilts. The museum (built on stilts like the original settlement) includes many replica buildings and artifacts discovered from the prehistoric settlement. Recently, archeologists have found a new settlement that dates back to 6000-5800 BC on the Albanian side of the lake, making it one of Europe’s oldest settlements. 

With school back in session, my attention has returned to teaching. I look forward to meeting the new cohort of Peace Corps volunteers arriving this month.

Additional Updates:

• The school began on September 1^st.
• I finally feel comfortable conversing in Macedonian – the extra tutoring sessions seem to be helping!
• September 26th marks one full year in this country, and how fast the year has gone is astounding.